Celebrating A New Wave Of Korean Trend Designers

Celebrating A New Wave Of Korean Trend Designers

Celebrating A New Wave Of Korean Trend Designers

Miss Sohee by Daniel Sachon; Andersson Bell

We’ve binge-watched Squid Sport, and been mesmerised by Oscar-winning Parasite. We have listened to these catchy BTS beats on repeat, and lusted after Lisa from Blackpink’s Celine T-shirt and denims wardrobe. We could even have been one of many 4.5 billion individuals to look at Psy’s high-energy Gangnam Type on YouTube… Or one of many 11.6 million TikTokers who’ve taken half within the #gangnamstylechallenge.

It appears we simply cannot get sufficient of Korean tradition. Little surprise then, that London’s V&A Museum not too long ago opened a barn-storming new present in celebration, operating till June 25, 2023. Entitled Hallyu! The Korean Wave, the exhibition is divvied up between Ok-culture, Ok-drama, Ok-pop and, most excitingly of all, a roomful of style showcasing up to date variations of Korean conventional hanboks (a tight-fitting cropped jacket and bell formed skirt) in addition to a variety of remarkable designers to control.

korean fashion designers

Moon Jar Costume, Blue by Minju Kim. Seoul, 2021.

© Minju Kimng

There’s the romantic ruffled organza robe with matching pearl trimmed hood by Kyu Shin and Ji Park of five-year-old Seoul label Blindness; in addition to a graphic neoprene and sequinned robe, filled with road indicators and typography by Korean-American Kathleen Kye of Kye – whose followers already embody the likes of Kourtney Kardashian.

These and different Korean style designers at the moment are driving the crest of this unstoppable wave, whereby Korean tradition strengthens its grip on the remainder of the world. Seoul-born, London-based designer Rok Hwang of Rokh is main the curve.

korean fashion designers

Rokh SS23

Daniele Oberrauch

korean fashion designers

Rokh SS23

Daniele Oberrauch

He shot to style fame after successful the LVMH Particular Prize in 2018 and has been displaying at Paris Trend Week since February 2019. Launching his label in 2016, after stints at Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Chloé and Louis Vuitton, he has developed a knack for including youthful pizzazz to traditional items – like turning a trench coat into this season’s assertion by making it in shiny electrical blue PVC, or his punk buckled and strapped sharp tailoring, together with a revamped blazer with dogtooth print and a cropped lower.

Some Korean style traits grow to be large – just like the cropped tops, jackets and extra. While Seokwoon Yoon was making backless fits for Seoul Trend Week in March 2021 lengthy earlier than Timothée Chalamet stepped out in a backless prime on the latest Venice Movie Competition – and promptly stole the present.

korean fashion designers

Ashlyn SS23

Launchmetrics.com/highlight

One other rising designer who’s making waves on the world stage is Seoul-born, New York-based Ashlynn Park. She not too long ago reached the finals of 2022’s LVMH Prize for her eponymous model Ashlyn, that superbly mixes Korean tailoring with Western material and pattern-cutting expertise honed at Yohji Yamamoto – and has simply been picked up by Matches as a part of this season’s Innovator programme. You want solely look on the burgundy bandeau crepe gown with uneven ruching or black puff-sleeve cotton shirt to understand Park’s expertise.

London universities are additionally a hotbed for Korean designers to hone their expertise. Take London-based Sohee Park, higher often known as Miss Sohee: the flamboyant pink-and-gold peony gown from her Central Saint Martins 2020 graduate assortment was worn by Miley Cyrus when she carried out on the BBC’s Graham Norton Present just some months later, and at present lights up the style room on the V&A’s Hallyu! exhibition. Her dramatic and distinctive ‘demi-couture’ designs even caught the eye of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who supported her first-ever on-schedule present from the sidelines of Milan Trend Week in February 2022.

korean fashion designers

The Peony gown by Miss Sohee, 2020 commencement assortment ‘The Woman in Full Bloom’

Daniel Sachon

And now, Miss Sohee has debuted on Internet-a-Porter as a ‘new identify to know’, with a party-ready assortment that oozes sizzling glamour – suppose sassy blue, crystal embellished cropped tops with built-in gloves, and an elegant strapless metallic peplum minidress embellished with fake pearls in addition to crystals.

One other London-based Korean designer who has lengthy been a go-to for discerning style lovers from Jorja Smith to Meghan Markle and Michelle Obama, is the inimitable Rejina Pyo. Beginning her much-loved label in 2013, Pyo is now stocked by main retailers together with Matches and Selfridges, most not too long ago making headlines when she dressed the previous First Girl in double denim for Ellen Degeneres’ now-defunct present. As Grazia Each day put it, the co-ord was ‘the most recent proof that she [Obama] is the best lady on the planet.’ Fairly proper.

korean fashion designers

Michelle Obama wears Rejina Pyo on the Ellen present

Courtesy

The architectural tailoring of Eudon Choi, in the meantime, has received him plaudits from the get-go – together with a British Trend Council and ELLE expertise launch pad award in 2010 and rising expertise of the 12 months award by WGSN in 2012. And now much more so in his second 12 months as inventive director of Seoul-based, Paris-born luxurious bag firm Louis Quatorze. ‘Korea is in my DNA,’ stated Choi from his Seoul atelier earlier this month. ‘I simply labored within the design business in Korea and it’s very superior… Korean girls are dressed very nicely and they’re so subtle, so I suppose sure issues are all the time there. They’re actually into their tailoring and lower and match, so this intuitively feeds into my work,’ he explains.

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And simply as there’s a powerful road model scene in Korea, there’s a complete host of streetwear labels to find too. Like cute-yet-edgy Bmuette run by design duo Byungmun Website positioning and Jina Um, which not too long ago confirmed at London Trend Week and final 12 months undertook an ingenious collaboration with Korean automobile icon, Hyundai, for a set that upcycles supplies from discarded automobile waste. Suppose seat materials remodeled into shoulder patches and sleeves for monitor jackets, or seat belts as braces and removable straps.

Brothers Kevin and Terrence Kim of IISE are additionally names to look at, for his or her skill to replace Korean style traditions with modern aptitude – see their utility jackets, trousers and shorts that characteristic Nubi stitching and quilting patterns. While the likes of mannequin Jieon Lee of Happly and Youngae Lee have re-interpreted the normal hanbok for a mission known as ‘Hanbok Wave’: Youngae shortened it ‘so as to add a youthful feeling’, whereas Jieon turned its quick prime right into a double-buttoned cropped blazer.

korean fashion designers

Lee Younger-Ae at Hanbok Wave

Chris Yates

korean fashion designers

Happly at Hanbok wave

Chris Yates

Holly Tenser, womenswear shopping for supervisor at Browns Trend, says Korea’s streets have additionally launched Seoul-based Andersson Bell to the retailer this season – a mixture of the nation’s signature road model with a minimalist Scandi aesthetic. ‘They completely stability a streetwear-leaning aesthetic with a barely retro, quirky, female edge,’ explains Tenser. ‘I particularly love their playful crochet knit items, vintage-style t-shirts and their enjoyable tackle denim, usually utilizing patchwork or blended washes to create curiosity.’

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‘Korean designers are making style really feel contemporary and enjoyable once more,’ Tenser concludes. We could not agree extra.

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